Frank & Ernie's -- just what the locals ordered

All but overlooked amidst all the haute hoopla over the opening of Doug Keane's in December was the return of a good family style steakhouse to Healdsburg's Mitchell Lane.

, owned and operated by Ronnie Palmieri and his wife Leslie, is a welcome relief -- just what the locals ordered.

For 25 years, this was the location of the Western Boot, the kind of place that working class families favored, with its steak-and-potatoes menu and full bar.

Then the new millennium hit town, and a rising tide of upscale tourists threatened to sink all boats moored to tradition. The Boot sold, then closed; it was reborn (very briefly) as Jackie's Sports Bar. It was empty and looking for rescue when Ronnie Palmieri came back to town last year.

The l graduate (Class of '82) had lived in Santa Barbara for years, where he and his wife ran a popular restaurant (Paisano's Pizzeria).  They came back hankering to open up a restaurant "more like it used to be," Ronnie told me a few days ago, "where it all comes together as an inclusive meal -- soup, salads, sides, the whole deal."

With his old-school memories of cruising Mitchell Lane and stopping in at the Lamplighter Pizzeria that used to be at number 9 even before the Western Boot, Palmieri  knew that the things could be better than closed.

He gutted the place, put in new booths, moved the bar to a more private area at the back of the long room, and hired a fellow red meat enthusiast in A.J. Lockwood (formerly of Safari West) to run the kitchen. And on Dec. 16, 2010, Frank & Ernie's opened its doors.

Named for Palmieri's father (Frank) and uncle (Ernie), the restaurant is steeped in Healdsburg tradition. Ernie Palmieri used to own the around the corner; the Palmieris live in Dry Creek, and the goal of the restaurant has clearly been met: in two short months, it's become a local's favorite, with good food at a fair price.

Locals? You bet. I found another restaurant owner having lunch here last week -- her own place is dinners only, so there's no gotcha there.

While I had lunch, two Brandt brothers, John and Joe, from Healdsburg's deep-rooted Brandt family and insurance agency dined nearby. In fact, I went with my daughter and granddaughter just after Christmas -- if that's not family, I don't know what is.

There's char-broiled sirloin steak, filet mignon, hanger and strip on the menu, as well as rib eye and bone-in rib eye. Prices for these range from $16 to $35, depending on the cut and size (the 24oz porterhouse is the outlier at $40). Everyone speaks highly of the prime rib -- 14 oz. ($25) or 24 oz. ($31), served Friday through Sunday only.  Dinners include potatoes or rice pilaf, soup or salad, baked beans or vegetables.

These are the sort of beef dishes that beef eaters like, the whole range of cuts. All meat is quality Angus Beef, with the exception of the $9.95 cheeseburger, which uses Painted Hills natural organic fresh ground beef served in a Costeaux bun. It comes with fries or salad, lettuce and pickles, red onion and tomato slice (no extra charge).  If they'll substitute the deep fried, salty onion rings, go for it.

Another lunchtime favorite is the prime rib French dip sandwich ($9.95), again served on a Costeaux roll -- they get all their breads just across the street, it seems.

What, you don't eat meat? Is that even possible? Well, they do have a portobello mushroom entree -- charbroiled, of course -- plus salmon filet, shrimp scampi, chicken breast, and pastas with marinara sauce.

A variety of appetizers for light eaters is also available -- recommended are the risotto balls ($6), stuffed with provolone, crusted and deep-fried --  as well as good beer on tap and bottles, and a solid and fairly priced wine list.

Service is efficient, attentive and  friendly -- valulable qualities often not found in pricier places.

"We wanted to fill that mid-range void, between cheap food and high-end," Palmieri said. From the satisfied patrons on my visits, it looks like they succeeded.

is located on Mitchell Lane, next to the office. Mitchell is a small street running between Healdsburg Avenue and the shopping complex on Center Street., where the is. The restaurant is open for lunches and dinners Wednesday - Monday, closed Tuesday.